Paris 4: Normandy

We took a day away from Paris and headed north to Normandy to see the beaches that were invaded on D Day (Jour J, in French). Though I'm no history buff, this has always been a place I wanted to visit.

What I didn't realize about the D Day invasion was how much coastline the attacks covered. There were five beaches-- Sword (UK), Juno (UK/Canada), Gold (UK), Omaha, and Utah--that covered 50 miles.

Sword Beach

We started between Sword and Juno beaches. The British needed a port to land in and no natural bay existed. So they floated empty concrete boxes across the English Channel, then filled and sunk them to create a port. You can still see many of them!

Richard caught a candid picture of me, a rarity since I'm usually the one taking pictures.

Juno Beach

Gold Beach

Our second stop was at Gold Beach. There were several German reinforcements still standing on the hills, and we were allowed to run around in them uninhibited.

At least in America, the French have somewhat of a reputation for cowardice during WWII. It was interesting to hear our French guide share a different perspective. She said that, while the French sided with whomever they thought would keep them alive regardless of ideology (not to their credit), many did choose quietly and helped to undercut the Axis. For instance, they helped build these bunkers for the German guns. But rather than make them from regular concrete, they added sugar to the mix so the buildings would melt and collapse when they were hit.

There were spider webs across all the fields, totally parallel, and they sparkled in the sun. 

Mom was taking pictures of the countryside and this cute old guy... then she realized he was peeing. Yes, just right there in front of people. Super gross. And now part of permanent family lore.

Driving between the beaches we past through the most beautiful, idyllic little french towns. Cobblestone streets, sheep, beautiful old stone houses and churches were everywhere. It was insanely beautiful. I would have taken pictures, but I was so sick I was falling asleep every time we sat down in the car. I can't believe places like that really exist outside of my dreams!

Our third stop was the American Cemetery. It was sacred and peaceful.

We don't know anyone buried there, but we are certainly indebted to them. Being at the cemetery reminded me of a rather famous poem written during WWI.


In Flanders fields the poppies blow 
Between the crosses, row on row, 
That mark our place; and in the sky 
The larks, still bravely singing, fly 
Scarce heard amid the guns below. 

We are the Dead.
Short days ago 
We lived, felt dawn, saw sunset glow, 
Loved and were loved, and now we lie, 
In Flanders fields. 

Take up our quarrel with the foe: 
To you from failing hands we throw 
The torch; be yours to hold it high. 
If ye break faith with us who die 
We shall not sleep, though poppies grow 
In Flanders fields. 

"In Flanders Fields" by John McCrae

Things never get too serious with Todd and Cait. Here, they are kicking pine cones at each other. Cait spent the entire vacation trying to trip Todd while he was walking. Todd won that war.

The cemetery is on the hill just above Omaha Beach. We got out of the car and walked along the beach for just a minute. In the hillside, you can still see some of the German guns and fortifications.

Between Omaha and Utah beaches is Pointe du Hoc. The Germans had a concentration of guns and fortifications there, and the Allies bombed them from above and scaled the seaside cliffs. The entire point is pock marked with explosive craters.

 

 

Omaha Beach

I am so glad we went to Normandy, it was one of the best things we did. I still can't believe we have been where these WWII battles took place, it was amazing.